Living in the Pacific Northwest there are endless mountain biking destinations. Whistler is the one on the top of everyone’s list and from there we work down the list. Thrown in there are all kinds of regional favorites from lift-assisted bike parks to free ride trail systems and more. From Portland one can hit all of these within a day. So why do I keep going back to Bingen?
While locals know of Bingen and know it well, outside of the area it doesn’t get the hype and fanfare that other notable places receive. However, I’ve seen countless photos of mountain bikers shredding its trails grace the pages and websites of some of the most notable mountain bike magazines and media companies. The trail system I’m talking about is Syncline, otherwise known as Coyote Wall.
Bingen is a small town across the Columbia River from Hood River. Hood River has it all … the scene, the reputation, the hip downtown with plenty of bike shops and breweries, and of course the highly regarded Post Canyon trail system. It is most definitely destination-worthy. I frequently bump into riders from all over the country who make a special trip to ride in Hood River. Hood River has the whole vibe and culture of an outdoors-minded community. Roof racks and trail-hitch bike racks adorn seemingly every other vehicle. Regionally it’s like a smaller version of Bend. Located only an hour east of Portland it receives less than half of the annual rainfall that we do which means more sun … a huge bonus for those who live in rain-drenched areas.
But Bingen? Well, that’s a different story. It doesn’t have a cool, hip, and trendy downtown stocked with bike shops, boutiques, day spas, and breweries. It’s a bit raw and rough around the edges. That’s also a perfect description for Syncline as well. For those who’re accustomed to machine-groomed and overly manicured trails then you’ll be in for a wake-up call when you ride Syncline. It is raw, rough, rutted, gnarly … and beautiful. It’s a throwback to the trails I used to ride over 25 years ago when I first got into mountain biking.
For the last several years I’ve made countless trips to Hood River and Bingen. Here’s how it normally works. Drive a quick hour from Portland, drop my sons off at one of the skateparks in Hood River or Bingen, and then I hit a trail … Post Canyon, Whoopdee, Syncline, etc. Our latest trip was focused solely on Bingen which meant we drove straight through Hood River, crossed the Columbia River, and headed to Daubenspeck Park in Bingen where there’s a skatepark.
Our plan was set. I would drop off my two sons at the skatepark and then drive the 5-10 minutes over to the Syncline trailhead. I’d ride for about 2 hours while they skate, come back, and together we’d go over to the Society Hotel to enjoy some coffee. On a bluebird day in the Pacific Northwest, with rain forecasted all next week, it was shaping up to be a perfect plan for a perfect day.
Fortunately or unfortunately when I ride Syncline I have a route … a plan. It’s nearly the same every time. Climb (which you have no other choice than to) up into the trees and then traverse straight over to Coyote Wall. The name “wall” is descriptive. It is literally a massive wall of basalt. A precipitous cliff where portions of the trail skirt dangerously close. But it’s the climb up that I enjoy the most. Depending on pace and how many stops for photos it takes 30-45 minutes to get up into the trees. Long before that are several key trail junctions delivering you to fun and amazing loops … Little Moab and Little Maui. Again, the names are great descriptors. Little Moab has a lot of rock step-downs and is technical whereas Little Maui is a fast trail through lush green fields of grass. I call it the Shire.
Riding Syncline there’s something for everyone … from XCers to DHers. The draw to Syncline is that it sits atop an open face with expansive views of the Gorge. For me that is the primary draw which brings me back from Portland time and time again. Here in the city we often live under a perpetual cloud canopy. Because of the rain when you ride on trails close to the city it is in a dense and dark forest. At Syncline the whole world opens up and you can see for miles in each direction up and down the Gorge.
I rode my normal loop. Climb into the trees, pedal over to Coyote wall, take photos along the way, descend and hit Little Maui on the way back. I know how long it takes which is perfect timing to get back to the skatepark, change, take more photos, and hang out with my sons while they skate. The ride up and down Syncline couldn’t have been any more spectacular. I ran into several groups of riders which is always a treat to see.
Roughly two hours after I dropped my sons off I was back at the skatepark. They were still skating so I took some photos of the action. By the time I showed up one of my sons had a blister from his shoe which meant it was time to skate barefooted. After another half an hour we were ready to move on. Our day trip in Bingen wasn’t over yet … far from it.
Several months ago my oldest son took a road trip with a group of international students from Japan, South Korea, and Taiwan. They were all in Portland for 4-6 months studying English at a couple different universities. Through his work volunteering as a conversation partner he has become friends with several of these students. Before they had to fly back home as their program was coming to an end they decided on a road trip to explore the Gorge and Mt. Hood. The group (including my son) ended up stayed at the new Society Hotel in Bingen. I previously didn’t even know it existed other than the one in downtown Portland. My son raved about it, texted me photos when he stayed, and so we knew we had to go over after skating and mountain biking. Coffee was in order.
While I own and run Loam Coffee it doesn’t mean I don’t search out and find good coffee everywhere I go … whether in Portland or elsewhere. To be honest, I was a bit giddy to go to the Society Hotel. Having originally grown up in small-town America I am even more cognizant and appreciative of efforts like this to attract tourists and continue to help revitalize local economies (which is why mountain biking is so key for many communities).
I went from giddy to ecstatic when we pulled up. The aging school and gymnasium were brought back to life in new and creative ways. I already had planned to go for an iced Americano. I grabbed my camera and we made our way up the steps into the hotel. When we walked in it took my breath away. I was awestruck.
Inside the lobby was what we had come for … coffee. Serving one of my favorite Portland coffee roasters (Roseline) it was shaping up to be an amazing post-ride treat. The baristas were friendly and again, the decor of the school-turned-hotel was dialed. We wandered around in the lobby, took photos, and talked.
With coffee in hand we set out to explore as much as we could without actually being guests staying the night. While the whole area with the pool is for hotel guests we instead made our way across the breezeway to the gym. Yes, a gymnasium. Straight out of seemingly the 1950s but remodeled with a modern twist. We wandered in … and decided to play some hoops. No, we weren’t planning on it. But there were several basketballs in the corner … and a hoop. Why not?
A half an hour later of shooting hoops with bad form and missing more than we made it was finally time to leave. Time to head back to Portland. I titled this article “One Day in Bingen.” Truth be told we didn’t even spend a full day there. Yes, we could’ve packed a lot more in because there really is more to do. More trails, a stroll through the little downtown of White Salmon which is just up the hill (literally) from Bingen, or hang out along the river on the Hood River side. But we packed enough in for one day.
Bingen is a magical place. No, not in the sense you might be thinking of. Apart from the Society Hotel it is not a polished town. You won’t find anything remotely like a Whistler Village. It’s still predominantly blue collar. However, as Hood River continues to grow in their mecca status and more money flows in Bingen, due to proximity, will continue to transform from a sleepy logging town to a haven for the outdoor crowd, tech mavens, and people looking to pick up a 3rd or 4th home.
Syncline and Bingen go hand-in-hand. Rough but spectacular. Raw but welcoming. Charming. A throwback in many ways. A throwback of a trail system that isn’t machine-groomed. Also, a throwback of a town that isn’t (yet) full of boutiques, breweries, day spas, outdoor apparel clothing stores and the like. There’s nothing wrong with those. You will find those aplenty across the river in Hood River. Until that day when (or if?) Bingen flips, it is most certainly destination-worthy. A true non-hype mountain biking destination.
Author’s note: In light of COVID-19 and the need for isolation and social distancing it is best to enjoy this experience after we get through this challenging time.
Words and Photo by Sean Benesh
Founder of Loam Coffee